Bangkok birding/ bird watching: Laem Pak Bia/Pak Thale

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Jiffy (also jiff)

noun [in SING.] informal a moment: we'll be back in a jiffy.

ORIGIN late 18th cent.: of unknown origin.

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E ni Svenskar och inte förstår Engelska så ska ni skämmas. J och Björn, med det menar jag inte att alla mina stavfel ska ältas varje gång vi träffas.

Well, the flag of Skåne, just a BONUS flag.

Birding/ Bird watching in Laem Pak Bia/Pak Thale, Thailand

Saturday 12 ^th of March 2016 and I was out of bed at 5 o'clock. I was on the street 5 minutes past 6 and there were no sign of the taxi. It was almost 20 minutes past 6 when I decided to goback to bed but then the taxi came. The driver had been waiting for me out side Family Mart.

Anyway, we were soon on our way towards Phetchaburi again. We will drive to the Calerm Maha Nakhing Highway by crossing Rama 4 with the fly over.

When we have crossed Chao Praya River we will get on Rama II highway, Road #35 and we will stay on this road until Phetchaburi. Well, road #35 merge with road #4 about 10km after having crossed the Mae KlongRiver. The second river you cross after having left Chao Praya River behind.

Road #4 goes all the way down to the border to Malaysia, but we will leave to road in Phetchaburi.

We stopped at a Jiffy to buy a few diet drinks and there were several busses off-loading students. All of them wearing a blue T-shirt with a tent on it. So this was most likely students going for camping over the weekend. I got fire in my arse and I had grabbed my diet drinks in a jiff and I made it to the cashier ahead of 200 students lining upbehind me.

Quick thinking, or I would not have reached the birding site until well after dark.

Young students on tour, they are for sure going to have fun. But it is 2016 and they send the future of Thailand out on the roads in busses. OK, I can understand this. BUT I CANNOT UNDERSTAND HOW ANY PARENTS CAN ALLOW THEIR CHILDREN TO GO BY BUS IN THAILAND. Last week, 3 terrible bus accidents and it is never getting any better.

Look at the red bus, you count to 10 of the little white figure and you lose track. You don't even bother start counting the lights and mirrors on the bus. This is more important than to have a trained driver to drive the children, a disgrace!

And for you that have never been outside NW Europe you won’t believe it. But for anyone ever having visited will believe me. They have disco busses in Thailand, yeah, I have passed a few of them and the first time it seemed like the greatest idea ever. People having fun with the disco light and the music blasting high. Well, I would for sure not get on board, unless I had the ignition key in my pocket.

Thinking about it, the idea is maybe to get people drunk so they dare going by bus, they are clever coming up with all kind of ideas except improving the road safety.

Click HERE for map in full window

I had prepared my map with the help from www.thaibirding.com and it was handy on the mobile phone. So if you don't like Nick Upton's map or my map you can easily make your own and bring with you. Anyway, it is not hard to find the places on the map.

But as soon as you're on road 3177 and 4028 you should keep a slow speed as it is only short distances between the different spots.

Entering Phetchaburi and we slowed down to keep an eye out for any sign for road #3177. We could not see any sign until we had a sign saying 3177 keep left and we almost missed the exit.

Keep in the left lane in Phetchaburi stand-by to exit

We turned off the highway and we turned left and then right at the first intersection. We drove until we crossed a second intersection and we were on road #4028. The intersection was poorly marked, but you are almost all the way down to the sea. We turned left and we could soon see the abandoned building and then we passed the sluice gate. Even if you don't know what a sluice gate you will understand when you pass the sluice port.

Easy to see the abandoned building form the road

Sluice port

After passing the sluice port turn left in to the dirt track (ARROW)

AGAIN! DRIVE SLOWLY IN THE AREA!! Not far between the spots and it is easy miss a road etc.

Dirt track from the sluice port to the abandoned building

You are soon passing a garbage dump (On your left hand side)

Took this picture after passing the garbage dump

We reach the abandoned building

Walking back towards the taxi

I got out of the taxi and I walked towards the abandoned building. I saw a few pigeons and another bird that I don't know what it was. There were plenty swallows, but except that, not much. I walked back to the taxi that had stopped at the garbage dump. I saw a few waders in the water but they were so scared it was hard to get any pictures.

Wood sandpiper - นกชายเลนน้ำจืด

Nordmann's greenshank

I'm back at the taxi and I will go to explore the garbage dump

The stench was not so bad. There were many birds flying around, many different egrets a few different kinds of Myna. I also saw a few Drongos and on top of this there was a small lizard running along the road. I spotted a Green bee-eater and when I should take a picture the bird was gone. DARN! But I discovered that the bee-eater had moved closer to me so I got a couple of very good pictures.

Now I experienced something very strange, the Green bee-eater was following me, flying around me. My guess is that it was because of my yellow shirt, not much colour around in this area so maybe the bird thought I was a nice flower.

Green Bee-eater - นกจาบคาเล็ก

Green Bee-eater - นกจาบคาเล็ก

Green Bee-eater - นกจาบคาเล็ก

Green Bee-eater - นกจาบคาเล็ก

We're back at the sluice gate and road #4018

We turn left and we continue to the fishing port to rent a boat the get to Laem Pak Bia sand pits

Drive until you reach the bridge crossing a small river. Turn right just before crossing the bridge and drive down the paved road along the south side of the fishing port in the river. At the end ofthe road you find Mr. Daeng's house.

You have to drive slowly, it is easy to miss the bridge. But no problem, you can always make a U-turn. As soon as you are on the bridge you see the fishing boats in the river.

We missed the road to Mr. Daeng and we had to put the car in reverse from the bridge, just 20 meter to back up and we turned right in to the road leading to Mr. Daeng's house. Mr. Daeng's house is about 200 meter down at the end of the road. The big fishing boats are up closer to the bridge, when I approached Mr. Daeng's house the boats got smaller and there was small huts along the river. The huts were what we call boat houses. A bridge with a small fishing boat and fishing nets.

The bridge crossing the river

Turn in to this road leading to Mr. Daeng's house

Reaching the end of the road

Reaching the end of the road and Mr Daeng's house

Mr Daeng's house

There was a girl at Mr. Daengs and she told me that Mr. Daeng was out with his boat. He would be back at 4 o'clock in the afternoon. I told her that I wished to be on my way back to Bangkok by then. She, I think it was Mr. Daeng's daughter, went to check with the neighbour. She came back and the neighbour would take me to Laem Pak Bia sand pits.

This would set me back by 800 Baht. I walked on a bridge, at least to say flimsy and I was scared while walking the 3 meters to his boat house. The boards were almost worn away and stepping on the floor in the boat house wasn't any better. The whole construction was about to fall apart and I was very relieved when I had finally made it on board the small fishing boat.

The boat house

The boat is waiting for me

We can see the floor, nothing I was excited over

Fishing port

Sailing down the river

The driver waving good-bye from the boat house

White Egret

Mouth of the river

Little Cormorant

We can see the Laem Pak Bia sand pits through the mangrove

Little Cormorant / นกกาน้ำเล็ก

Little Cormorant / นกกาน้ำเล็ก

Laem Pak Bia sand pits

We are anchored at Laem Pak Bia sand pits

We are anchored at Laem Pak Bia sand pits

I'm ashore to explore the area

BBC News

Captain drove up the boat on the sand and I got out of the boat. I had been ashore for just a few seconds when I realised that it would have been better to have been dressed for swimming. My shoes were soon full of sand and I had to wade to get to the other side. The tide water was on the way out so it would soon be dry.

There were not many waders around, some plovers and it is very hard to identify them. Is it the same Plover but different ages? Or is it different Plovers?

I walked around and I saw a few Seagulls and some Terns, otherwise it was only Greater Sand plovers and not a spoon bill to see. I was back on the boat after about an hour and we returned to the shore. I was disappointed that I hadn't seen any spoonbills, the reason for me to come here.

Greater Sand Plover - นกหัวโตทรายใหญ่

Greater Sand Plover - นกหัวโตทรายใหญ่

Greater Sand Plover - นกหัวโตทรายใหญ่

Greater Sand Plover - นกหัวโตทรายใหญ่

Low water when we go back and the mangrove is above water

On the way out to catch seafood

Soon low water

Soon low water

Captain

Little Cormorant / นกกาน้ำเล็ก

On the way out to catch seafood

On the way out to catch seafood

On the way out to catch seafood

Back in port

Back in port

Back in port

Little Cormorant / นกกาน้ำเล็ก

We were back ashore and it was nice to get in to the AC taxi. By now I was hungry and there were no Mini Mart and for sure no restaurants around that I wanted to eat at. We left the fishing port and we continued to drive north on road #4028. After about 5 to 600 meters we turned rightin to a temple. As soon as you have left the fishing port behind you see the temple on the right hand side.

Environmental Research and Development Project in Laem Pak Bia is a project initiated by H.M King Bhumibol, called King's Project if you look for the place on internet. Located just behind the temple.

We drove past the temple and there was a big parking lot and there were some stall and some people selling snacks and cold drinks. I was hungry and we checked out what kind of snacks they had, not much to choose from. Well, there were plenty to chose from, but nothing that I wanted to try. Finally, I decided to try something orange coloured with a bottle of water.

The girls told us to continue up the road to the mangrove and pools. Cars was alowed and when we passed the first pool we could see many waders, Black winged stilts, Red-wattled Lapwing and the Richard's pipit. I had never seen a Richard's pipit before so I took some pictures for my list of birds I have seen in Thailand. But there and then I had no clue of what kind of bird it was.

Richard's pipit - นกเด้าดินทุ่งใหญ่

Richard's pipit - นกเด้าดินทุ่งใหญ่

But that is the same after every birding, when I'm back home I have to spend time trying to identify the birds. We could drive around the mangrove but I asked the taxi driver to park the car and I got out to walk around the area. There were “remains” of wooden walking bridges through the mangrove. They have, they had bridges over the mangrove that would have been very nice to use, but the wooden bridges were gone.

This was of course a set-back as I had been hoping to be able to walk around in the mangrove. I could hear bird songs from the mangrove. I heard one bird and it was kind of easy to copy the song. So I was whistling trying to talk with the unknown bird. I did so for a while and I was soon discover an Oriental Magpie Robin next to me.

Well, now I have learned how an Oriental Magpie Robin sounds so up till today I have learned 4 different calls. Asian Koel, Coppersmith Barbet, Plaintive Cuckoo and now the Oriental Magpie Robin. But I suspect that the sound of the Oriental Magpie Robin will soon be forgotten.

Listen to the Oriental Magpie Robin

The walking bridges at the Environmental Research and
Development Project in Laem Pak Bia leaves a lot to wish for

I saw a couple of huge bird flying by when I left the Oriental Magpie Robin. I thought it was Asian Openbill flying by and I was not so interested. But I decided to take a picture, might be lucky and it turns out to be a great picture. As soon as I focused on the birds I saw that it wasn't any Asian Openbill.

I could see that it was pelicans flying around and I went to check it out. One of them landed in one of the pools. There were quite a few different kinds of birds in the pools at the King's project. Terns and I could not identify them, they all look the same. Same with the waders. I had decided to never go birding again on my way back from the Laem Pak Bia sand pits.

It is not fun when there is no difference between the birds. Yeah, one bird have a spot in their arse and it is a different species. So it is not any fun doing it as all of them look the same. Checking my book is of exactly no use. Sandpipers and plovers all look the same in the book, and the raptors is also something shitty to try to identify. So no more birding for me.

Bird watching should be enjoyable and not a pain in the arse trying to find out what bird you are seeing. Same with all the small birds, look the same and to find them in the book, impossible.

Spot-billed pelican - นกกระทุง

Spot-billed pelican - นกกระทุง

Spot-billed pelican - นกกระทุง

Spot-billed pelican - นกกระทุง

Spot-billed pelican - นกกระทุง

Spot-billed pelican - นกกระทุง

Spot-billed pelican - นกกระทุง

Spot-billed pelican - นกกระทุง

Spot-billed pelican - นกกระทุง

Grey Heron - นกกระสานวล

Grey Heron - นกกระสานวล

Little Cormorant / นกกาน้ำเล็ก

There was a lot of cars parked at the north east corner and I went to check it out. Turned out that there was a board walk down to the water front. We parked the taxi and I took off and it was about 900 meters to walk to the water front. I only saw one bird while walking on the board walk, a fan tail.

It was low water when we reached the water front and I could see the Laem Pak Bia sand pits and all the boats we had met returning to port was out there looking for oysters or whatever.

Well, the nature trail would have been a total waste of time if it wasn't for all the colourful Fiddle crabs on the mud bottom. They were in all kinds of different colours and this was the only thing I enjoyed on the nature trail. No birds or anything else exciting to see here.

Entrance to the nature trail to the water front

Nature trail #1 - Walk board down to the water front

Nature trail #1 - Walk board down to the water front

Some of the trails were not in use any more

Down at the water front

Laem Pak Bia sand pits from the King's project

Down at the water front

Down at the water front

Down at the water front

Some of the trails are closed

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

Fiddler crab

A fiddler crab, sometimes known as a calling crab, may be any of approximately 100 species of semi-terrestrial marine crabs which make up the genus Uca. As members of the family Ocypodidae, fiddler crabs are most closely related to the ghost crabs of the genus Ocypode. This entire group is composed of small crabs – the largest being slightly over two inches across. Fiddler crabs are found along sea beaches and brackish inter-tidal mud flats, lagoons and swamps. Fiddler crabs are most well known for their sexually dimorphic claws; the males’ major claw is much larger than the minor claw while the females’ claws are both the same size.

Like all crabs, fiddler crabs shed their shells as they grow. If they have lost legs or claws during their present growth cycle, a new one will be present when they molt. If the large fiddle claw is lost, males will develop one on the opposite side after their next molt. Newly molted crabs are very vulnerable because of their soft shells. They are reclusive and hide until the new shell hardens.

Fiddler crabs exhibit a constant circadian rhythm in a controlled laboratory setting that mimics the ebb and flow of the tides. The crabs turn dark in the day and light in the dark.

Found in mangroves, in salt marshes, and on sandy or muddy beaches of West Africa, the Western Atlantic, the Eastern Pacific and the Indo-Pacific, fiddler crabs are easily recognized by their distinctively asymmetric claws.

Fiddler crabs communicate by a sequence of waves and gestures; males have an oversized claw or chela; used in clashes of ritualised combat of courtship over a female and signal their intentions between conspecifics. The movement of the smaller claw from ground to mouth during feeding explains the crabs' common name; it looks as if the animal were playing the larger claw like a fiddle.

The crab's smaller claw picks up a chunk of sediment from the ground and brings it to the mouth, where its contents are sifted through (making the crab a detritivore). After anything edible is salvaged, be it algae, microbes, fungus, or other decaying detritus, the sediment is replaced in the form of a little ball. The presence of these sediment balls near the entrance to a burrow is a good indication of its occupation. Some experts believe that the feeding habits of fiddler crabs play a vital role in the preservation of wetland environments; by sifting through the sands, they aerate the substrate and prevent anaerobic conditions.

Fiddler crabs live rather brief lives of no more than two years (up to three years in captivity). Male fiddler crabs use the major claw to perform a waving display as a form of female courtship. Females choose their mate based on claw size and also quality of the waving display. In many fiddler crab species, the female occupies the burrow of their mate while she lays her clutch of eggs. Research shows that the male major claw size is also correlated with burrow width; the width of the burrow influences incubation temperature.

Therefore, the female will choose a male mate whose claw size indicates the best burrow environment for her clutch of eggs. The waving display is also thought to indicate to females the overall healthiness of the male; a more vigorous display is more difficult to do and thus requires the male to be in prime health condition, which suggests that the male will help produce viable offspring.

Male versus male competition also occurs as a fighting with the major claws. If a male loses his larger claw, the smaller one will begin to grow larger and the lost claw will regenerate into a new (small) claw. For at least some species of fiddler crabs, however, the small claw remains small, while the larger claw regenerates over a period of several molts, being about half its former size after the first molt. The female fiddler carries her eggs in a mass on the underside of her body. She remains in her burrow during a two week gestation period, after which she ventures out to release her eggs into the receding tide. The larvae remain planktonic for a further two weeks.

Fiddler crabs such as Uca mjoebergi have been shown to bluff about their fighting ability. Upon regrowing a lost claw, a crab will occasionally regrow a weaker claw that nevertheless intimidates crabs with smaller but stronger claws. This is an example of dishonest signalling.

The dual functionality of the major claw of fiddler crabs has presented an evolutionary conundrum in that the claw mechanics best suited for fighting do not match up with the mechanics best suited for a waving display.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Click HERE for map in full window

Yet again, it was nice to get in to the AC in the taxi and we took off for our next stop. The Salt Pans between Laem Pak Bia and Pak Thale. After that it is only 2 more stops before returning to Bangkok. The mud field at the temple and the last stop at Pak Thale.

We stopped at the marked to buy a coconut before we left the King's project and the temple behind. Driving north on road # 4028 and there is a bend to the left after a few hundred meters. There is an opening in the crash barrier. Turn right here and continue slowly on the dirt track.

We drove to the second salt shed and I asked the driver to drive back and wait for me and I would walk back while looking for birds on the way. And seriously, it didn't look to be very many birds in the area. I had seen some waders when we drove down the dirt track.

Opening in the crash barrier

Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans

Yes, it was hot to walk around

Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans

Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans

Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans

Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans

Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans

Spotted Redshank - นกทะเลขาแดงลายจุด

Spotted Redshank - นกทะเลขาแดงลายจุด

Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans

Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans

Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans

Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans, pools and sheds

Pond/ pools at Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans

Yet again, to get in to the AC cooled taxi was what must be like getting in to heaven. It had been hot to walk around the Salt Pans and all I got out of it was ONE new bird, the Spotted Redshank. Black winged stilt and some Sand Plovers. I don't have a clue of which Sand Plovers it was and I had decided not to care either. Same with the other waders I saw, never mind what it was. And I didn't care and I could enjoy my walk in the barren but beautiful surroundings.

From now on I will call all the birds with long legs for waders, never mind what. OK, the spoon bills will still be spoon bills. But so far I have not seen any spoon bills and this was of course a disappointment. But we had 2 more stops so who knows?

Next stop is at the mud fields in front of the temple Wat Kom Naram. We left the Laem Pak Bia Salt Pans behind and we drove towards the fuel station where we would turn left. This was quite a long drive and you can speed up a wee bit as you will see the fuel station on your left hand side in good time before the intersection. And it is even easier to see the red and white radio mast.

Easy to see the gas stop and radio mast coming from south on road # 4028

Approaching the gas stop and intersection

Time to turn left

In front of Wat Kom Naram

The mud field in front of Wat Kom Naram is dry like a desert

The mud field in front of Wat Kom Naram is dry like a desert

Dirt track leading to the fish/ shrimp farm

Wat Kom Naram

Driving to the fish/ shrimp farm

Mud field, not one single bird and not even a drop of water

The mud field was dry, it was so dry it was just dust blowing over the “dust” field inthe wind. I didn't see one single bird on the “dust” field. We drove past the temple and we turned right at the end of the “mud” field. North of the field is a few ponds looking like a fish/ shrimp farm. There were some bushes and trees and I saw some birds. But I don't know what kind of birds it was.

We drove back to road # 4028 and we turned left continuing driving north towards Pak Thale to check out more waders. I really hope that I will see some spoonbills. It was a few minutes’ drive to Pak Thale. You will pass some oil tanks on the way and you will soon see a temple, Wat Nok Pak on your left hand side. Slow down and you see a sign “Pak Thale ShoreBird Site” on your right hand side. Turn right and get on the dirt track just in front of the “Pak Thale ShoreBird Site” sign. Now drive for a few hundred meters until you see the next sign

Passing the oil tanks

We see the Wat Nok Pak

We see the Wat Nok Pak

Slow down when you see the green “Pak Thale ShoreBird Site”

Follow the sign to Ban Pak Tha-le

By now you should already have left road #4028 and you should be on the dirt track

After a few hundred meters you're in the Salt Pans again, turn right as per directions on the sign

DRIVE SLOW TO AVOID DUST!! Continue straight or turn to left

DRIVE SLOW TO AVOID DUST!!

We continue straight

We come to the end and we turn back and go left where we park the car

I leave the taxi behind

We parked the car and I got out. Strong wind here as well and the dust was flying in the air. There wasn't much waders around and I think it would be better to come back here during highwater. Low water and I think the birds are down at the beach searching the muddy sea bed for food, just like at Bang Pu in Bangkok. At low water there was many waders but during the high water they were back at the ponds.

I saw a few waders but I don't know what kind of waders it was.

And, well, they looked like all the other waders. But the Black-winged Stilt was easy to recognise. I saw that some of the waders had a hard time to stay up in the strong wind. It was fun to watch the waders in the wind, one bird rolled away in the wind coming up on a crest and the wind caught the bird.

A small and a bigger wader

A small and a bigger wader

Loading salt in to a truck

Loading salt in to a truck

A wader blow away in the strong wind

Black-winged Stilt - นกตีนเทียน

Black-winged Stilt - นกตีนเทียน

Black-winged Stilt - นกตีนเทียน

Of course, all bird pictures available on my Thailand
bird checklist of bird I have seen by clicking HERE

We left Pak Thale and we turned right when we reached road #4028 and we drove the Scenic Route back to Rama II instead of driving to Phetchaburi. We passed many good birding spots on the way so if there would have been time we would have stopped.

I was back home at 6 thirty and I had been away for 12 hours and I had covered the areas I had in mind. But you could easily have spent one more day here.

How to kill a day in Bangkok #25
Review: Birding/ bird watching at Laem Pak Bia/Pak Thale

Fee:Free

Web page:No official web page. But visit Nick Upton's web page Thaibirding for information about Laem Pak Bia/Pak Thale Here you find all the information you need about Laem Pak Bia/ Pak Thale, maps and what bird you can expect to see. And of course info on how to get there

Address:N/A

Tel:N/A

Opening Hours:: N/A

++++++

It is a huge area to cover by foot and you are allowed to drive your car at most of the places, good for us. Pak Thale and you must walk in order to avoid dust. I walked around at the King's project thinking “LAZY BASTARDS” about the people driving around in their cars.

I changed my mind when we drove off to check out a faraway corner. I noticed that the birds didn't fly away when we approached them with the car. So I came much closer to the birds comparing to when I'm walking. I walked towards the birds and they flew away.

The cool season are long gone, well, this year we haven’t had much of a cool season, 4 days or so only. AND IT IS GETTING HOT! After having walked around it is nice to get back in to the AC in the taxi.

There is really not much of a choice for places to eat at if you like clean places. I bought coldwater/ coconuts and snacks at the parking place behind the temple at the King's project in Laem Pak Bia. And it is not easy to bring your own food as it gets very hot in the car while you're watching the birds. Imagine a snickers after 5 minutes in 45°C in the car. But id you don't mind eating from a food stall you have plenty to choose from.

It was OK, there were plenty birds, but the garbage and shit they just throw around. Seriously, it is 2016 and there are still people around throwing garbage in the nature! But coming in the King's Project was nice, of course, there were garbage, but not as much as I'm used to.

To see waders, take the boat to reach the Laem Pak Bia Sandpits during low water. Then there are plenty muddy sea bottom for the birds. Pak Thale, I didn't saw many waders and I think you are better off coming here during high water. As in Bang poo, then the muddy sea bottom is covered in water and the waders come back up to the pools.

And this was a perfect Bangkok “day tour” and that is even if you don't like birds. Come on down to Laem Pak Bia and have a walk around the Salt Pans. Just to drive along the Scenic Route between Phetchaburi and Rama II is worth the drive.

Review Man

Well, I was not happy trying to identify the waders and I gave up on the birding. I will have tolook for a new hobby. But then I came up with an idea. I will continue birding, but I will only look for colourful birds as they are easier to identify.

My friend had called a birding club here in Bangkok and they had recommended Phutthamonthon Park and the Chaloem Kanchanaphisek Park at the Wat Chaloem Prakiat. We have been at the Phutthamonthon Park already.

So we decided to go check out the Chaloem Kanchanaphisek Park on Monday. And if you click HERE you will find out how this birding adventure turns out.

We remember when I was here with Bangkok Photograpers back in February 2015. Wat Salak Tai Community Photo Walk #36. Back then I didn't see any birds, but I wasn't looking for them.

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